RSS |
The rise and fall of St Pierre- Martinique is one of the most remarkable stories in the Caribbean. By the turn of the 20th century St Pierre was a flourishing city of around 29,000, known as the Paris of Caribbean. As many as 30 ships at a time stood at anchor. By 1902 it was the most modern town in the Caribbean, with electricity, phones, and a tram. |
On May 8, 1902, Mount Pelée on the island of Martinique exploded, belching forth a cloud of burning ash, poisonous gas, and lava that raced down the mountain at 250 mph. At 3,600°F, it instantly vaporized everything in its path; 29,000 people were killed in a matter of a few minutes. One man, Cyparis, a prisoner in an underground cell in the town's jail, survived. Destroying the grand city of St. Pierre, the lava thundered into the bay where it sank eighteen ships and hundreds of smaller crafts.
Today, St Pierre is regaining its former glory: the old stone stairways and bridges still exist, and the ruins of the theatre are a prominent feature. Some of the historic buildings are being rebuilt and restored, notably the old custom house by the waterfront.
|
The long grey-sand beach is very popular with local people. Tours are arranged to visit the wrecks of the ships which were in the harbour on the day Montagne Pelée erupted. Special submarines with glass windows take tourists to view the wrecks and the colourful fish which swim around them. An Office du Tourisme has been built, as well as a seafront promenade. |
 |
There are plenty of sidewalk cafés, and you can take a stroll in the streets or go up the hill to a restaurant where the view is spectacular. Music at night sets the place alive. The ruins of the island's first church (built in 1640), the imposing theater, and the toppled statues are all lightened up at night. This city, situated on its naturally beautiful harbor and with its narrow, winding streets, has the feel of a European seaside hill town.
For those interested in the eruption of 1902, pay a visit to the Musée Vulcanologique. Established in 1932, it houses photographs of the old town, documents, and a number of relics excavated from the ruins, including molten glass, melted iron, and contorted clocks stopped at 8 am (when the volcano erupted). The Cyparis Express is a small tourist train that runs through the city, hitting the important sights with a running narrative (in French).
An excursion to Depaz Distillery is one of the island's nicest treats. For four centuries it has been at the foot of the volcano. In 1902 the great house was destroyed in the eruption, but soon after it was courageously rebuilt and the fields replanted. A self-guided tour includes the workers' gingerbread cottages, and an exhibit of art and sculpture made from wooden casks and parts of distillery machinery. The tasting room sells their rums, including golden and aged rum (notably Rhum Dore) and distinctive liqueurs made from ginger and basil.
