Art of Lace-making- Malta

For centuries the Maltese women have been making excellent laces as accessories for dresses, lace mitts and gloves. By 18th century, lace making had become a well-established local industry as is evident in various paintings by Francesco Zahra (1710-1773) and Antoine de Favray (1706-1798).

The paintings represented high dignitaries of the Order of St John ecclesiastics and Maltese ladies of society.

Lace-making in Malta and neighbouring Gozo trace their origins back to the 16th century. Needle-lace was made there as was in Venice. This continued until the 19th century when the depression that descended upon the islands nearly led to its extinction. Lady Hamilton is responsible for reviving and promoting a new lace-making tradition in Malta in 1833.

Genoese lace makers Genoese lace makers were brought to Malta by Lady Hamilton, Lord Nelson’s consort, to help revive the industry. Modern Maltese lace is a direct descendent of Genoese lace although it has developed its own character. One of the most recognizable traits of Maltese and Gozo lace is the creamy, honey colored, Spanish silk from which most of it is made.

Black silk was also used until the 20th century. Later linen was also used in some pieces used for household purposes instead of clothing, as it was more durable. Another distinguishing feature of Maltese/Gozo lace is the 8 pointed Maltese Crosses that are worked into most, but not all of the lace.

The last of the most recognizable features are the leaves known as “wheat ears” or “oats”. They are plump and rounded in shape compared to the long narrow Bedfordshire lace leaves. Bedfordshire lace, which is sometimes compared to Maltese lace, has some similarities and was probably both developed from the Genoese bobbin lace.

Maltese lace is very popular with the tourists. To ensure the survival of this ancient craft, lace-making is taught in government trade schools for girls, while many private bodies also hold special evening classes.<